Mark Lauckner artist in glass
Mayne Island Glass Foundry
Site-27 C-8 RR#1 Mayne Island, BC V0N 2J0 Canada





Instructional Videos

"The Color Pot"

Instructional video for the construction
of a 15-pound electric crucible furnace.

©1999 Mark Lauckner  240 minutes VHS  $50.00 post-paid
 

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This is a two tape set.  The furnace is top-gathered and runs at 10 amps, 240 volts.  This is a perfect little furnace for an emerging hobby glassblower who would like to practice techniques on a relatively small scale in a home studio setting.  The unit makes an excellent "color pot" addition to a studio running a larger tank of clear batch, but can also be used on its own for blowing, casing, sculpting, drawing rod or tubing, etc.  The first video covers the construction of the unit, the second tape covers the maintenance and element replacement, as well as the repair to an older unit which has melted several thousand pounds.  Also included on the second tape is the design and building of a digital controller with 60 amp mercury relays for under $200.  NOTE:  THIS IS NOT A GLASS FUSING "KILN"  IT IS A FURNACE WHICH PRODUCES LIQUID GLASS.


The Colour Pot
Furnace Frame being assembled
Two-part furnace building VHS video
assembling the furnace frame

click here to see one happy customer's feedback

The production is fairly well done, but is 'homegrown', so has no fancy digital titles and effects.  There are ambient noises like dive bombing hummingbirds and airplane noise, though.  Suppliers' list included.

The first video tape is 2 hrs 40 minutes.  It covers the following:

measuring, marking and cutting the frame steel
fastening the frame together, painting
measuring, cutting and placing the galvanized sheet steel
cutting and wrapping the fiber backup insulation in foil
cutting and placing 2 layers of brick
grooving the element bricks
measuring resistance of element, cutting, stretching to length, twisting lead wires
placement of element in grooved brick sections
lid brick fitting and fastening
hinge fastening
crucible placement and brick cutting
electrical connections
lid safety switch mounting
thermocouple selection and placement

The second tape includes:

controller component options
basic start-up and shut down procedures
crucible care
routine maintenance checks
element replacement
other maintenance considerations
refitting one after 2 years intense use
building a digital controller for under $200

The furnace takes about 6 hours to get up to 2300 from a cold start, charged.  When hot, it takes a couple hours to melt additional full charges.  Cooking and squeezing schedules for attaining good clear glass would be similar to other furnaces.

The 15 pound capacity electric glass furnace is a square box, 20 inches by 20 inches.  It has 7 inch legs to provide ventilation below.  It has a 9 inch square gathering door on the top, so that the gathers are taken from on top of the glass supply, instead of from the side.  The gathering door sits on an 18 inch square lid, for maintenance access.

The frame is constructed of fairly light angle iron, with galvanized sheet steel outer liner.  It has 2 layers of K-23 insulating fire brick and one layer of 1 inch mineral fiber board as backup insulation before the outer steel skin.

The pyrometer and controller options affect the price of the units.  I prefer a programmable digital controller, mercury relay, and R-type alumina-sheathed thermocouple.  I have used the K-type thermocouples in this furnace, and they last 2 months max before they burn out.  The K-types are OK for pottery kilns because they are only at 2000-2200 f for a very short time with each firing.  The electric glass furnace requires that the temperature be 2200-2300 f for several hours a day.  The K-type thermocouples are under $35, and the R-types in a protection tube are $200.  Infinite control switches can also be used with this unit, but it is not recomended.  (These are the small controls that have knobs and are used in electric kitchen stoves.)  This is because there is no communication between the device setting the temperature and the actual temperature in the furnace.  The infinite control switches are under $35, the Dwyer process controls are $250.  The last option would be the relay that switches the current to the element.  A standard industrial contactor rated at 40A can be found for $20.  Mercury relays are silent, reliable, completely sealed, and are guaranteed for millions of cycles.  They are about $70 for a 60A rated 2-pole unit.

There is a commercial electric crucible furnace on the market right now which is basically a pottery kiln with a pot sitting inside it.  It includes a K-type thermocouple and infinite control switch.  These would be OK for occasional hobby use, but would not last very long in a production shop.

The crucible in this furnace sits below the bottom of the top brick layer.  The top lip of the crucible does not come up to the bottom side of the gathering lid.  The entire height of the crucible is surrounded by element coils, so it heats up right to the top.

The element is 14 gauge Kanthal A-1 wire, wound to be 3/8" outside diameter.  I use 22 ohms worth of this element in this particular furnace because I run it straight up from cold and don't want to crack the crucible. If the element was sized down to about 16 ohms, it would get hotter faster, but wouldn't last as long.

Advantages:
silent operation
portability
top-gathered and top-charged
modular brick system for easy (1-1/2 hr) element replacement
low power consumption
crucibles are $70
elements are $50 or less
top entry means easy visual inspection of glass level and quality
top entry makes for easy spot color melting on the surface
6 inch round entry hole means pipes and rods don't get too hot
 

Disadvantages:
sloppy gathers can result in erosion of brick around the entrance (same with most furnaces)
elements need replacing after every 80 or 90 "hot" days (same with all electric furnaces which use radiant heat coils)
 
 

 

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© 2001 - 2006 Mark Lauckner
last update
October 3, 2007